Food Critic Quote of the Week

Slate’s Justin Peters:

Nobody likes Sbarro. Devoid of atmosphere, charm, and gustatory relevance, with no signature product to call its own, it’s America’s least essential restaurant… The food there is mediocre and unimaginativeassembly-line Italian festooned with cheese and sugary tomato sauce, a bland version of the homey fare found at postseason soccer banquets or church fundraising suppers. It’s expensive, tooa doughy, oleaginous slice of plain pizza costs $3.49 nationwide, and you’re certainly not paying extra for ambiance. The prevailing sentiments among online reviewers alternate between disgust (“If you like pizza dough that tastes like clay, then this would be your spot to go”) and resignation (“I stopped by the Sbarro at the Philly airport because the line was shorter than the philly cheesesteak line”).

I’m something of a fast-food apologist, but Sbarro is where I draw the line.

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